Photo courtesy of vision china

　　Beauty cosmetics guide to avoiding pits

　　Reporter Jin Feng

　　If you want something beautiful, how can you do it without skin care and makeup? In the eyes of many beauty experts, today’s skin care and makeup process is not just as simple as "washing your face and applying a cream", but involves a series of steps such as cleansing, toner, cream and essence.

　　Before these operations, the quality of the product is the most important thing. In order to identify the quality of the product, there are various methods circulating on the Internet: "Facial cleanser is baked with fire, and if it is splashed with oil or baked more and more like yogurt, the safety factor is not high." "Shake toner, if there is less foam, it means less nutrients." "Put salt on lipstick and rub it. If there are black particles, it means that the content of lead and mercury exceeds the standard, never buy it. … Can these seemingly simple "earthworks" help us polish our eyes, and how can we choose the products that suit us?

　　Improper operation: baking facial cleanser with fire and spilling oil are not safe.

　　Positive solution: oil spills are caused by oily components or emulsifiers.

　　"Roasting with fire will spill oil, or the more it is roasted, the more it looks like yogurt, which does not explain the quality of facial cleanser." Chi Bo, a professor at the School of Food and Light Industry of Nanjing University of Technology and the State Key Laboratory of Material Chemical Engineering, told the Science and Technology Daily reporter that splashing oil when baking facial cleanser with fire can only prove that there are oily ingredients or emulsifiers in facial cleanser.

　　Chi Bo said that some facial cleansers with strong cleaning power and more soap-based surfactants will add some grease or emulsifier. Grease can reduce the degreasing power of soap-based surfactants and make facial cleansers softer to use. This facial cleanser will spill oil if baked with fire, but it does not mean that it is unsafe to use this facial cleanser.

　　As for why facial cleanser is baked more and more like yogurt, it is related to the formula of facial cleanser. Chi Bo said that some facial cleansers have high fineness, and the water evaporates after baking, and the molecular structure of the emulsifier has not been destroyed, so it will be very sticky, but this can only prove that its emulsification system is relatively stable and the facial cleanser will be stored for a relatively long time.

　　Since the method of identifying the quality of facial cleanser by fire roasting is not reliable, how to judge the efficacy of facial cleanser? "After using a good facial cleanser, the face is not tight." Chi Bo said, "In particular, it is not recommended for people with sensitive skin to use facial cleanser that makes the skin feel tight, because it will remove the oil that acts as a barrier on the skin surface."

　　Xu Yang, deputy chief physician of jiangsu province hospital Dermatology Department, also said that the main function of facial cleanser is cleaning. After cleansing, the skin is not tight, moist and dehydrated. If you want to moisturize the skin, you might as well use facial cleanser containing moisturizing ingredients such as glycerin and allantoin.

　　In addition, the pH value of facial cleanser is preferably weakly acidic. "The pH value of skin is about 4.1— 5.8, and the pH value on the market is 6-mdash; Facial cleanser between 7 can be used, and the pH value can be measured with test paper. Although the degreasing of alkaline or soap-based facial cleanser is better, if it is too alkaline, it may affect the pH value of the skin. " Xu Yang said that after the change of skin pH value, it will cause changes in skin flora. If the pH value increases, it will form an environment conducive to the growth of some skin bacteria such as propionibacterium acnes, thus increasing the probability of acne on the skin.

　　Chi Bo suggested that for people with oily skin, you can use soap-based facial cleanser containing dodecyl and laurate, but you should also beware of excessive cleaning and damage to skin oil. Excessive cleaning will make the skin dry and tight, and it will also open the pores completely, which will increase the chance of contact with germs and lead to skin allergies. People with neutral and sensitive skin are more suitable for facial cleanser containing amino acids and olive oil lipids.

　　Inclined operation: shake the toner, and there are many nutrients in the foam.

　　Positive solution: the content of surfactant determines the amount of foam

　　After washing your face, especially in hot summer, pat a little toner on your face, and a refreshing feeling will come to your face. So how to identify the advantages and disadvantages of toner? Some netizens suggested shaking the toner. If there is less foam, it means less nutrients. Is that true?

　　"The content of nutrients has nothing to do with the amount of foam." For this method circulating on the Internet, Chi Bo said that many ingredients in the toner will not produce foam, such as vitamin C, plant extract, salicylic acid and so on.

　　Xu Yang said that the ingredients in toner are both water-soluble and fat-soluble, such as hyaluronic acid and fruit acid, which are water-soluble ingredients, and glycerol and salicylic acid, which are fat-soluble. Surfactants need to be added to dissolve fat-soluble ingredients in water. Surfactants can cause foam when shaking, but surfactants do not affect the nutrition of toner.

　　Chi Bo further introduced: "In the production of toner, sometimes in order to dissolve essence and essential oil in water, it is necessary to add surfactant, which can increase the surface tension of the liquid, make all the substances evenly blend and form an oil-in-water system, so that various substances are not easy to delaminate and the storage time is longer."

　　How much foam you shake out can’t judge the substance content, so how to choose the toner that suits you?

　　Xu Yang said that the function of toner is mainly to moisturize and soften the stratum corneum. However, the use of toner should vary from person to person. People with oily skin can use some toner that softens the cuticle or contains alcohol. For people with sensitive skin, it is not recommended to use toner containing alcohol, fruit acid and salicylic acid easily. "Fruit acid and high concentration salicylic acid have exfoliating effect, etc. It is not recommended for people with thin cuticle." She suggested that for people with sensitive skin, if you can’t identify which toner is useful to you, you can use lotion or moisturizer directly without caution.

　　Inclined operation: the emulsion enters the water, but floats on the water surface and contains oilstone ester.

　　Positive solution: Sinking and floating surfaces are mainly determined by density.

　　An emulsion that looks as pure as milk is moisturizing and moisturizing. If a few drops are squeezed and dissolved in water, some emulsions float on the water surface and some emulsions sink into the water. Some emulsion identification methods circulating recently believe that the emulsion floats on the water surface, indicating that it contains oleoresin, which will harm the skin. Is this statement reliable?

　　Regardless of ups and downs, it can’t prove whether the emulsion will harm the skin. Xu Yang said that emulsion is generally composed of oil, emulsifier, preservative, perfume, excipient for adjusting pH value, etc. The density of the emulsion is determined by different preparation formulas and processes, and whether the emulsion floats on the water is determined by the density of the emulsion. If the density is greater than water, the emulsion will sink, otherwise it will float on the water. However, it can’t be said in general that the emulsion floating on the water will hurt the skin, which depends on the specific components and proportions.

　　Chi Bo believes that emulsions containing more oils are easier to float on the water surface. Most of these oils are light oils, such as mineral oils. The amount of oils will affect the skin feel and moisturizing strength of emulsions. Healthy skin is water-oil balance, and the best way to keep skin healthy is to protect the barrier function of skin. Too light and too thick emulsion is not suitable.

　　If you want to choose a suitable emulsion, you can also pay more attention to the ingredient list. Xu Yang believes that the most important function of lotions and creams is moisturizing. If you need anti-aging, you can choose an emulsion with substances such as alcohol A, vitamin C, vitamin E and peptides. Sensitive skin needs some emulsions that have anti-allergic effect and can repair the water-oil barrier, such as those with ceramide, purslane extract and licorice extract, which have certain anti-inflammatory effects. The emulsion containing vitamin C, arbutin, tranexamic acid and other substances is suitable for people who need whitening. Salicylic acid, fruit acid, almond acid and other substances can help fine pores and fight acne.

　　Oblique operation: rubbing salt on lipstick turns black, indicating that it contains lead and mercury.

　　Positive solution: The content of related substances can only be detected after nitration with strong acid.

　　Choosing a powerful lipstick will not only make your lips full and shiny, but also make your whole face feel makeup. Some netizens said, put salt on lipstick and rub it. If there are black particles, it means that the lead and mercury content exceeds the standard, so don’t buy it.

　　In this regard, Qu Mei, a senior engineer of the National Cosmetics Quality Supervision and Inspection Center, responded: "Not reliable." One of Qu Mei’s daily work is to check the quality of all kinds of cosmetics.

　　She said that whether the quality of a lipstick meets the standard needs to be reflected by its lead, arsenic, mercury, cadmium and total number of colonies, mold and yeast, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and other conventional indicators. To complete this detection process, it needs to go through a set of chemical experiments.

　　"When testing, we weigh the lipstick, add strong acid, and then heat it with an electric furnace. The strong acid will fully decompose the chemical composition of lipstick. Then put them in a high-temperature boiling furnace and burn them for several hours to remove all the organic substances in the lipstick, leaving inorganic substances. After dissolving inorganic substances, the contents of lead, arsenic, mercury and cadmium in cosmetics can be detected by atomic absorption or atomic fluorescence. Therefore, it is impossible to decompose lead and mercury just by adding salt at room temperature. " Qu Mei told the Science and Technology Daily reporter that lead, arsenic, mercury and cadmium are all prohibited ingredients in the production of cosmetics. The prohibited mercury can make the skin appear whitening in the short term, but lipstick has no short-term whitening demand, so there is no need to add it. The test results of cosmetics center for many years show that no samples of lipstick containing excessive mercury are found, so consumers don’t have to worry.

　　What are the black particles produced by the friction between salt and lipstick in the online video? Chi Bo said: "Black particles may be caused by sodium chloride destroying the paste system of lipstick, which changes the internal components. However, some merchants will not write all the ingredients in the ingredient list, and the composition of black particles is not easy to judge. "

On January 10th, the financial sector reported that Foton Motor announced that in order to effectively prevent, timely control and resolve the financial business risks of the company and its holding subsidiaries in BAIC Group Finance Co., Ltd. and ensure the safety and liquidity of funds, the financial business risk disposal plan was formulated. The financial business risks in the plan include deposit risk, credit risk of financial companies, compliance operation risk and reputation risk. The Company has set up a leading group for financial risk prevention and disposal, which is responsible for the prevention and disposal of the risks of funds associated with the Company and financial companies. The leading group is headed by the chairman of the company, with the chief financial officer as the deputy head. Other members include the secretary of the board of directors, the heads of the financial planning department, the audit department, the legal department and the financial management department. The office of the leading group is located in the financial planning department, with the company’s chief financial officer as the office director and the chief financial planning officer as the deputy director, responsible for timely monitoring and evaluating the financial company’s business qualifications, business and risk status, and starting the emergency response plan according to the emerging risk status.

Chupin, 21st Century Innovation Capital Research Institute

With the rise of Z generation and social platforms in China, in the past two or three years, a large wave of e-commerce has appeared in the outlet of new consumption, and countless new consumer brands have sprung up. With the help of online celebrity’s new traffic portal, through cooperation with Li Jiaqi, Viya and massive Xiaohongshu KOC, it seems that the brand has become popular and "out of the circle" overnight.

Behind the rapid rise of domestic beauty is the blessing of capital. According to the "2021 Beauty Industry Trend Insight Report" released by CBN Data, in 2020, the beauty industry disclosed that the investment and financing amount was 4.812 billion yuan, a growth rate of 324% compared with 1.135 billion yuan in 2019. With Dongfeng, Perfect Diary and Winona’s IPO, Winona’s parent company Betaine (300957) went public in March this year.

Starting with flow

Back in 2016, Huang Jinfeng just stepped down from Yu Nifang and established Yixian E-commerce (YSG.N). The company name is Huang Jinfeng to pay tribute to his alma mater, Sun Yat-sen, and Chen Yuwen and Lu Jianhua, the co-founders of FMCG brand, are friends of Huang Jinfeng’s college classmates for many years. Zhang Lei of Gaoyan Capital once asserted that China must have a chance to give birth to a new L ‘Oré al, but is the "new L ‘Oré al" a perfect diary? Perhaps it is still open to question.

Undoubtedly, the capital blessing of the "golden owners" has provided it with a steady stream of power. Since March 2017, Yixian E-commerce has launched the first perfect diary of cosmetics brand. With its cost-effective products featuring "big brand replacement", it has a consumer group that meets its positioning among many high-end brand cosmetics. Whenever users have complaints about the experience of perfect diary products, there will always be something like "only a few tens of dollars, what else do you want!" Comments. In a short period of three and a half years, Yixian E-commerce has completed seven times of financing and gone to IPO, and the capital lineup behind it is also extremely luxurious, including Gaoyan Capital, which holds 13.8%, Zhenge Fund, which holds 10.5%, and Gaorong Capital, which holds 9.2%, as well as many big-name investment institutions such as Boyu Capital, Tiger Global and Sequoia China. It has been revealed that in last year’s round of financing, "new shareholders came in by grabbing, otherwise they were done by old shareholders."

Obviously, the business model of Perfect Diary is the most typical "Internet play" in recent years. It was pushed to the market after relying on funds to seize the market crazily, and its fast-moving speed is also a "double-edged sword". According to the national enterprise credit publicity information system, there are 38 patents of Perfect Diary (Yixian E-commerce), all of which are appearance patents, and there is no core R&D patent information such as component technology.

From 2018 to 2020, the sales and marketing expenses of Yixian e-commerce were 309 million yuan, 1.251 billion yuan and 3.412 billion yuan, respectively. The overwhelming advertisements revealed the new generation of consumers’ cognition of the perfect diary. In fact, spending money on marketing has achieved a lot. Generation Z has gradually become the main force of consumption. Nowadays, brands can quickly establish consumers’ minds and brand awareness by using the effects of online celebrity and stars. Packaging theme design with "ingenuity" and "face value" and cross-border joint names can quickly capture consumers’ hearts. In the beauty track, cross-border joint products have exploded in just three years, with a growth rate of nearly three times.

The turning point occurred in February 2018. The keen marketing team of Perfect Diary found that many users published brand color testing and grass planting content on Little Red Book. Planting grass on the surface is actually dark and wide, which makes Perfect Diary see the possibility of new users’ growth. The data shows that in June 2017, the number of users of Little Red Books was only 50 million, but it surged to 100 million yuan in March of the following year, and the user activity was close to 30 million, three times that of a year ago. Perfect Diary rode the express train of Xiaohongshu, and the sales volume was singing all the way.

Product dilemma

However, beauty brands have to speak with products after all. Despite the large number of new products on the Perfect Diary, there is still no impressive and timeless big single product. On the cost side, big single products do not need to be upgraded repeatedly, which is difficult to be eliminated and does not require high new product promotion fees. However, the money of the perfect diary is spent on advertising, and the product research and development that needs real money most is far from enough. Perfect Diary’s R&D expenditure in 2020 is only 67 million yuan, accounting for 0.93% of revenue. In 2018 and 2019, it is only 3 million yuan and 23 million yuan.

As a result of the lack of research and development, although the products are dazzling, they have always changed their forms and the repurchase rate is not optimistic.According to the data of CICC Research Institute, after trying to cooperate with Xiaohongshu, Tik Tok and KOL, the sales of Shiseido, L ‘Oreal and Estee Lauder all increased by more than 60% in 2020, while the sales of Perfect Diary increased by only 22%. In addition, another major "injury" of Perfect Diary is its low gross profit, which positions the brand as "big brand replacement", but its gross profit margin is 10% to 20% lower than that of Estee Lauder and Huaxi Bio. If you want to break the dilemma of low gross profit, the simplest and most direct way is to raise the price, but rashly raising the price will inevitably affect the biggest "advantage" of the perfect diary-cost performance. Therefore, Perfect Diary came up with the method of "reducing the quantity without reducing the price". Under the condition of normal lipstick net content of 3 to 4 grams, the "small heel" lipstick is only 0.8 grams.

At present, there are more and more enterprises on the national makeup track, and with the extrusion of foreign competing products, "cost performance" is no longer the most important cornerstone for domestic products to break through. At the moment when market recognition is increasing, quality is the goal that domestic beauty brands need to pursue.

Today, the domestic beauty industry has a perfect supply chain and industrial chain, which provides a very fertile soil for domestic brands to go to sea.According to CBNData’s "2021 Beauty Industry Trend Insight Report", Guangzhou has become a well-deserved incubator for new beauty consumer brands.According to the report data, nearly three-quarters of Tmall sellers in Guangzhou are mainly engaged in "face value industry" such as beauty care, which is 1.6 times of the national proportion; Guangzhou has more than half of the number of domestic cosmetics companies filing.In the past three years, the sales of Guangzhou beauty and skin care brands on Tmall platform have nearly tripled, such as Perfect Diary, Flower West, Tangduo, Zhiben and Runbaiyan.

Obviously, the biggest possibility for domestic brands to choose to go to sea is that their domestic losses are serious, and they urgently need to open up new markets and take international routes to raise prices for future research and development of high-end products.With the listing of Yixian e-commerce, I once said that I would take the perfect diary of domestic brand Thorn Road. The best interpretation of going out to sea is to try to acquire international brands and then turn to high-end market development.On October 30, 2020, Perfect Diary announced that it had reached an agreement with Pierre Fabre Group of France to acquire its high-end beauty brand Galénic；; On March 2, 2021, Perfect Diary said that it had reached an agreement with Manzanita Capital, a venture capital institution headquartered in London, to acquire its high-end skin care brand "Hermes in makeup remover" Eve Lom.The successive high-end acquisitions have made Perfect Diary’s cash flow tight. According to the annual report, the net cash flow generated by Perfect Diary’s annual business activities in 2020 was 983 million yuan.

At present, the most popular beauty products are lipstick, eye shadow and blush. According to the data of China Commercial Industry Research Institute, the export volume of beauty cosmetics and toiletries in China in 2020 is 999,000 tons, up by 4.3% year-on-year. With the help of e-commerce brands such as Tmall and Amazon, it is easier for new brands to go to sea.

In the future, it is still unknown that the perfect diary plan will cost billions of dollars in marketing expenses. However, when the heat and sales shine, will the perfect diary develop "luminous" products that will make the market refreshing?What consumers are more concerned about is how to gain a foothold in the market where new products are repeated after eating the perfect diary of traffic bonus.

The product business model of Perfect Diary is DHC, that is, Direct to Customer. In the list of foundries published in Perfect Diary, Ying Teli, Kosmeishi, Shanghai Zhenchen, etc. are all foundries of internationally renowned big-name nature halls, Polaiya, Dior, Chanel and Maybelline. With years of OEM experience,These foundries also have both design and R&D capabilities. It is not difficult to understand that behind the endless stream of new products, the R&D expenses account for only 0.9%.What will be the next step of the perfect diary under the loss? Obviously, the product quality of Perfect Diary can’t compete with the same brand, but the price is in an awkward position of "more than enough, more than enough". Consumers are paying for its "eye-catching" theme and packaging, and the name of "ZARA in beauty industry" is well deserved.

Although the performance of Marubi Co., Ltd. (603983) does not rely too much on marketing, it is also labeled as "single product". Marubi Co., Ltd. has three brands: Marubi, Chunji and Love Fire, and its core brand and revenue force are Marubi, which accounts for more than 90% of the company’s total revenue all the year round.

The advantage of Marumi lies in the solid foundation of its inherent customers. Since 2017, Marumi’s net interest rate has always remained between 20% and 30%, and Polaiya (603605) has also remained above 10%.

Track change

It is not easy for Marubi to cultivate high-end products and face the fierce competition in the cosmetics market with high gross profit margin when only Marubi brand stands out.Marubi’s gross profit margin in the first quarter of 2021 was 63.91%, which was 2.29 percentage points lower than the 66.20% at the end of 2020. Compared with the gross profit margins of benchmark enterprises Polaiya (64.09%) and shanghai jahwa (64.56%) in the first quarter of 2020, Marubi no longer has the advantage of high gross profit margin.

At the moment when the explosion of beauty products has sprung up, Marubi shares urgently need to find new consumption points to make consumers pay for high prices, so as to seize new profit growth points and highlight the encirclement. It is worth noting that on November 12, 2020, Marubi announced that it planned to abandon the original "make-up" fundraising project. The investment in the new project is estimated to be 276 million yuan, which will mainly focus on skin care products, supplemented by make-up products. After completion, it is expected to add 3,382.5 tons of skin care products and 200 tons of make-up products, fully reaching the annual output value of about 596 million yuan, which will continue to deepen the layout of the company’s skin care industry chain.

From this point of view, Marumi shares plan to abandon the fast-growing makeup track and turn to the skin care track.Not only that, Marumi shares also intend to invest in food and beverage and new retail consumer industries. On October 29th, 2020, Marubi announced that the company intends to jointly invest with several partners to set up an industrial fund with a scale of 100 million yuan, which will mainly invest in domestic and foreign high-quality or high-growth enterprises in consumer industries related to food and beverage, condiments and new retail, so as to build an ecological circle of food industry. One of the limited partners is Shanghai’s "coming to Iraq".Marubi Co., Ltd. said that this investment direction has a certain correlation with the company’s main business, mainly functional foods related to beauty.

The domestic beauty cosmetics who are striding forward all the way, the "circle" is getting bigger and bigger, but it seems to be getting farther and farther away from what people expect.After the rapid rise of national cosmetics with capital, what will be the next step? After the "fan economy" and "face value economy", Chinese cosmetics still need to rely on high-quality differentiated items to gain a foothold in the market.

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